The Gordon Setter, the black avenger of the Highlands, is a substantial bird dog named for a Scottish aristocrat. Athletic and outdoorsy, Gordons are bold, confident, and resolute in the field, and sweetly affectionate by the fireside.
The Gordon Setter is a good-sized, sturdily built, black and tan dog, wellmuscled, with plenty of bone and substance, but active, upstanding and stylish, appearing capable of doing a full day's work in the field. He has a strong, rather short back, with well sprung ribs and a short tail. The head is fairly heavy and finely chiseled. His bearing is intelligent, noble, and dignified, showing no signs of shyness or viciousness. Clear colors and straight or slightly waved coat are correct. He suggests strength and stamina rather than extreme speed. Symmetry and quality are most essential. A dog well balanced in all points is preferable to one with outstanding good qualities and defects. A smooth, free movement, with high head carriage, is typical.
Size-Shoulder height for males, 24 to 27 inches; females, 23 to 26 inches. Weight for males, 55 to 80 pounds; females, 45 to 70 pounds. Animals that appear to be over or under the prescribed weight limits are to be judged on the basis of conformation and condition. Extremely thin or fat dogs are discouraged on the basis that under or overweight hampers the true working ability of the Gordon Setter. The weight-to-height ratio makes him heavier than other Setters. Proportion The distance from the forechest to the back of the thigh is approximately equal the height from the ground to the withers. The Gordon Setter has plenty of bone and substance.
Head deep, rather than broad, with plenty of brain room. Eyes of fair size, neither too deep-set nor too bulging, dark brown, bright and wise. The shape is oval rather than round. The lids are tight. Ears set low on the head approximately on line with the eyes, fairly large and thin, well folded and carried close to the head. Skull nicely rounded, good-sized, broadest between the ears. Below and above the eyes is lean and the cheeks as narrow as the leanness of the head allows. The head should have a clearly indicated stop. Muzzle fairly long and not pointed, either as seen from above or from the side. The flews are not pendulous. The muzzle is the same length as the skull from occiput to stop and the top of the muzzle is parallel to the line of the skull extended. Nose broad, with open nostrils and black in color. The lip line from the nose to the flews shows a sharp, well-defined, square contour. Teeth strong and white, meeting in front in a scissors bite, with the upper incisors slightly forward of the lower incisors. A level bite is not a fault. Pitted teeth from distemper or allied infections are not penalized.
Neck long, lean, arched to the head, and without throatiness. Topline moderately sloping. Body short from shoulder to hips. Chest deep and not too broad in front; the ribs well sprung, leaving plenty of lung room. The chest reaches to the elbows. A pronounced forechest is in evidence. Loins short and broad and not arched. Croup nearly flat, with only a slight slope to the tailhead. Tail short and not reaching below the hocks, carried horizontal or nearly so, not docked, thick at the root and finishing in a fine point. The placement of the tail is important for correct carriage. When the angle of the tail bends too sharply at the first coccygeal bone, the tail will be carried too gaily or will droop. The tail placement is judged in relationship to the structure of the croup.
Shoulders fine at the points, and laying well back. The tops of the shoulder blades are close together. When viewed from behind, the neck appears to fit into the shoulders in smooth, flat lines that gradually widen from neck to shoulder. The angle formed by the shoulder blade and upper arm bone is approximately 90 degrees when the dog is standing so that the foreleg is perpendicular to the ground. Forelegs big-boned, straight and not bowed, with elbows free and not turned in or out. Pasterns are strong, short and nearly vertical with a slight spring. Dewclaws may be removed. Feet catlike in shape, formed by close-knit, well arched toes with plenty of hair between; with full toe pads and deep heel cushions. Feet are not turned in or out.
The hind legs from hip to hock are long, flat and muscular; from hock to heel, short and strong. The stifle and hock joints are well bent and not turned either in or out. When the dog is standing with the rear pastern perpendicular to the ground, the thighbone hangs downward parallel to an imaginary line drawn upward from the hock. Feet as in front.
Soft and shining, straight or slightly waved, but not curly, with long hair on ears, under stomach and on chest, on back of the fore and hind legs, and on the tail. The feather which starts near the root of the tail is slightly waved or straight, having a triangular appearance, growing shorter uniformly toward the end.
Black with tan markings, either of rich chestnut or mahogany color. Black penciling is allowed on the toes. The borderline between black and tan colors is clearly defined. There are not any tan hairs mixed in the black. The tan markings are located as follows: (1) Two clear spots over the eyes and not over three-quarters of an inch in diameter; (2) On the sides of the muzzle. The tan does not reach to the top of the muzzle, but resembles a stripe around the end of the muzzle from one side to the other; (3) On the throat; (4) Two large clear spots on the chest; (5) On the inside of the hind legs showing down the front of the stifle and broadening out to the outside of the hind legs from the hock to the toes. It must not completely eliminate the black on the back of the hind legs; (6) On the forelegs from the carpus, or a little above, downward to the toes; (7) Around the vent; (8) A white spot on the chest is allowed, but the smaller the better. Disqualification - Predominantly tan, red or buff dogs are ineligible for showing and undesirable for breeding.
A bold, strong, driving free-swinging gait. The head is carried up and the tail "flags" constantly while the dog is in motion. When viewed from the front, the forefeet move up and down in straight lines so that the shoulder, elbow and pastern joints are approximately in line. When viewed from the rear, the hock, stifle and hip joints are approximately in line. Thus the dog moves in a straight pattern forward without throwing the feet in or out. When viewed from the side, the forefeet are seen to lift up and reach forward to compensate for the driving hindquarters. The hindquarters reach well forward and stretch far back, enabling the stride to be long and the drive powerful. The overall appearance of the moving dog is one of smoothflowing, well balanced rhythm, in which the action is pleasing to the eye, effortless, economical and harmonious.
Affectionate, Confident, Bold
Predominantly tan, red or buff dogs
Sporting
Gordons are the largest and most substantial of setters—a big male might stand 27 inches at the shoulder and weigh 80 pounds. The stunning coat is a glistening black, with tan markings and long hair on the ears, belly, legs, chest, and tail. Tan spots above the bright brown eyes point up a wise and willing expression. Like other Scots breeds, from the compact Scottish Terrier to the majestic Scottish Deerhound, Gordons were built to withstand their homeland’s tough terrain and foul weather.
Generations of Scots huntsmen bred hounds and “collys” into setter lines, thus producing a large, rugged bird-dog suited to working in difficult conditions. Alexander, Fourth Duke of Gordon (d. 1827), the master of Castle Gordon on the craggy Scottish Highlands, maintained a keen interest in these dogs. By the early 1800s the duke’s kennel was producing setters recognizable as the breed that today bears his name. Between litters, the duke found time to play a key role in the development of the Scotch whisky industry.
The Gordon Setter is a good-sized, sturdily built, black and tan dog, well muscled, with plenty of bone and substance, but active, upstanding and stylish, appearing capable of doing a full day’s work in the field. He has a strong, rather short back, with well sprung ribs and a short tail. The head is fairly heavy and finely chiseled. His bearing is intelligent, noble, and dignified, showing no signs of shyness or viciousness. Clear colors and straight or slightly waved coat are correct. He suggests strength and stamina rather than extreme speed. Symmetry and quality are most essential. A dog well balanced in all points is preferable to one with outstanding good qualities and defects. A smooth, free movement, with high head carriage, is typical.
Feeding the Gordon Setter a diet high in protein (over 26 percent) is not recommended, as health issues can result by forcing rapid growth. Fiber content of at least four percent is best to ensure firm stool. Feed high-quality dry dog food, wet food, and, if desired, small amounts of healthy additives such as chicken and salmon, fruits, and cooked, fresh vegetables, provided they are listed as safe foods on the AKC website. Sodium can be dangerous—always feed “no salt.” Gordons should be lean, not overweight, so that a clearly defined “waist” can be seen. Bloat can be a risk in the breed, and owners should never exercise the dog one-half hour before or after feeding.
Brushing at least weekly is essential to prevent matting. Shedding is minimal if the dog is brushed regularly. Monthly grooming recommended for health includes trimming the hair on the feet, trimming the nails, trimming inside and around the ears, trimming around the vent/tail area, and checking the teeth for plaque. Bathing monthly is recommended. Dry skin and dandruff can be prevented with bathing and conditioning.
Gordons were bred to be personal hunting dogs, and they also served as nannies. They live to cuddling by your side or at your feet, as well as running in a field. Their genetic makeup calls for them to have a drive to run, so they do need exercise. They can live in an apartment but if so, they need daily exercise, which can be met by walking, jogging, or biking with the dog. If they have a yard in which to run, they will self-exercise, though a Gordon will always be happiest doing something with their bonded owner. Being with their owner is what they live to do. Caution: To prevent bloat, never exercise the dog one-half hour before or one-half hour after feeding.
A few, simple lifesaving training commands are mandatory. A puppy or dog must be trained to know the command “come,” and to come when called; to know his name and respond; and to obey the word “no.” Gordons are stubborn yet very soft and loving, and they live to please their owner. They are very smart and learn quickly. The best training is for them to have a job to do, and the best job they can have is spending time with their owner—whether being trained or having fun. They are closely bonded to their family and live to be with them, but they are fine being alone when family is away. Early socialization and puppy training classes are recommended for Gordon puppies and help to ensure they grow into well-adjusted, well-mannered companions.
Gordons are generally healthy dogs, but there are a few concerns to be aware of bloat, a sudden, life-threatening stomach condition, can occur in the breed. Gordon owners should learn the signs of bloat and what to do should they occur. Cancer is the most common cause of death for elderly dogs—in all breeds. There is not one specific type of cancer more prevalent in Gordons; young dogs dying of cancer is unusual. Responsible breeders will test their stock for conditions the breed can be prone to, including screening for elbow and hip dysplasia and eye conditions, and DNA testing for a number of health-related issues.
